In spite of a good black level, however, the Samsung would occasionally show a noisy, bluish cast (almost a "glow") in the darkest of scenes that was totally absent from the JVC and Mitsubishi. Motion, too, was done well, with the texture of playing fields remaining visible during very slow pans.ĭue to the recently incorporated dynamic iris, blacks and dark scenes were quite good-sometimes as good as the JVC and very close to the Mitsubushi, while a shade or two lighter than the Sony KDS-R60XBR2.
DLP REAR PROJECTOR TV 1080P
So much for the theory that the "wobulating" 1080p DLP chips used in all rear projection sets so far always make a soft picture. I was impressed with how sharp the picture was-sharper than the Mitsubishi in all cases and just as sharp as the JVC. I watched this set for weeks next to the JVC HD-61FN97 and Mitsubishi WD-65831 reviewed recently before ever doing any sort of calibration outside of the user menu. DVD players, however, will often require a significant change in the Brightness control. With 1080i HDMI or Component, Brightness (45) was spot-on and only Color needed a slight change (from 45 to 37).
DLP REAR PROJECTOR TV MOVIE
The video default settings for Movie mode were more accurate than most.
DLP REAR PROJECTOR TV TV
So, what you have right out-of-the-box is a set that can, with the push of a few buttons, look more accurate than just about any other RPTV out there, yet one that has the potential for true textbook color perfection far beyond any other TV I've yet tested. They could just as easily have perfectly dialed in the secondaries as well. The surprising fact is that Samsung did this on purpose.
It was the secondary colors (yellow, cyan, and magenta) that fell short just as they do in all the other RPTVs I've seen. Primary colors (RGB) were, in fact, remarkably close to the standard. Movie mode has one more big card in its favor that sets it apart from not only the other modes, but also from most other TVs on the market- almost accurate color. Other sets I've calibrated for customers have sometimes been slightly reddish in Movie mode/Warm 2 (there are variations between samples), but in nearly every case Warm 2 in Movie mode will render a better picture than Warm 2 in the other modes. Warm 2 in Movie mode is considerably less bluish and more accurate than Warm 2 in other modes, though with my sample it was still more bluish than the D65 industry standard. DNiE is permanently off in Movie mode (allowing you to run Sharpness up to 50) and Warm 2 color temperature is selected by default, though it's not the same Warm 2 that's used by the other modes. Samsung has a built-in limiter to prevent overdriving the set with the Contrast control. The Movie mode default settings are far less bright than the others, though you can bump Contrast up from 70 to maximum with no white crush if you really need it to overcome room lighting.
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